Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and tourists alike celebrating its superb cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, UNESCO recognised it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – adding it to a exclusive list of world cities and igniting hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it enters a worldwide network of more than four hundred metropolises across over 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The honor "demonstrates its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and dynamic gastronomic culture," as stated by a representative from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this venerable city comes as little surprise to its locals or dedicated food lovers. Many agree with the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO designation, this beloved, bustling, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is at last in the spotlight for what has always shaped its heart: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how should it be prepared' is a constant dialogue from morning until night in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually assessed by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its historic wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were conceived, perfected, and elevated to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, fusing Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was created to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs minced the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates local ingredients but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on every corner, there are little shops and stalls – hidden treasures that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, served in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a unpretentious joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The method of making it is scientific and demanding. The vendor hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though express concern that their younger generation are reluctant to learn the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will motivate more people worldwide to discover these tales and experience the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.
